Cappadocia –Thursday, 6 October 2011

Weather – cool morning with sunny day

Temperature – mid twenties

We met in the foyer with a 5.40am start to be transported to the hot air ballooning centre for a quick cuppa and bread and then to be taken to the balloon.  Unfortunately, David was ill in the night and although he made a brave effort and went to the central meeting area it was not meant to be and I waved goodbye to our fellow travellers as they set off on their ballooning adventure.   I met with the girl in the office and she had already received the news that David was ill and we arranged to go either tomorrow or the next day.

As unfortunate as it was - it was great timing….we were staying in one place for three nights so David could recover and we had the opportunity to still participate in this adventure.

The news from the other travellers when they returned at 8.30am after an hour balloon ride was that it was a wonderful never-to-be-forgotten experience.  David and I are now scheduled in for Saturday so after seeing all their terrific photos I can hardly wait!

We now had two people sick and another two opted out so our smaller band headed to the pottery factory, Kaya Seramik, which is the biggest and oldest factory in Cappadocia. 

I’m a lover of Iznik tiles and I’d seen some wonderful examples in Istanbul.  They are no longer made and Iznik is only a dot on the map now but centuries ago they produced beautiful tiles in cobalt blue, red and white which adorn many old mosques including The Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace in Istanbul.

Visiting this factory was the closest I will probably ever get to own an authentic Iznik tile….originals are forbidden to be taken out of the country.  The master potters at the factory reproduce the patterns from the old Iznik masters and they are truly beautiful.  The tour was very comprehensive however not too heavy on detail and quite light-hearted with Mustafa, a sixth generation potter, leading the way with his excellent English.  We were given a pottery demonstration by “Harry Potter” who showed us how to use a ‘kick wheel’ which some of the potters prefer to use rather than the electric as it is slower and able to be controlled with more finesse.

The showrooms were overwhelming with a vast variety of wares and the Australians were certainly leaving their mark with their volume of purchases.  One couple commissioned a large plate based on Ottoman lines and paid two thousand Australian dollars!  I succumbed to a plate of Iznik design.  There were many design choices including Hittite, Ottoman, Iznik, modern and one design attributed to the “crazy cousin” which was distinctly abstract.  The work was intricate and authentic so I thought I had died and gone to heaven.  I could have spent a day looking around all the show rooms.  I have pocketed their business card and as they do commissions all around the world I will make sure I don’t lose it!

Photo:  Beautiful plates...where do I begin?

Photo:  The blue range...divine!

Photo:  A restrained approach - only one plate purchased but very impressed with the visit!

On the way to lunch we had a quick wander through Devrent Valley which is six kilometres from Avanos where we are staying.  This gave us another opportunity to explore the unique landscape around Cappadocia.

Photo:  Desley and Cameron in the Devrent Valley.

Photo: The unusual landscape formed by erosion of volcanic ash.

Lunch today was generously hosted by a lady named Bahir in her own home.  Her husband Ali is a bus driver with our guide’s company and she is noted for her wonderful cooking.  Suffice to say we were not disappointed and after five courses (soup, homemade Turkish ravioli; cabbage parcels; potatoes with meat and rice followed by semolina cake) we moved over to the carpeted area (shoes removed) for general conversation and apple tea or cay.

Photo:  Three delightful local girls....particularly the one on the right!

Photo:  Where we retired to after our meal for apple tea and cay.....no shoes allowed!

Photo:  The Three Beauties.

It was time for an afternoon rest and we were all feeling particularly jaded.  We made a picture stop to see The Three Beauties – large volcanic formations which are a symbol of Cappadocia.  They feature on a Turkish banknote.

Rest time didn’t come soon enough with some of us sick and some feeling a bit under the weather and others just wanting to organise washing.  A couple of hours of rest and we were off again…..

We headed to Monk’s Valley for sunset and the world famous ‘fairy chimneys’.  The area was a religious area for hermits and Christian chapels.  Caves were carved into the natural earth formations over thousands of years.  At sunset it was particularly beautiful and Ergun served pistachio nuts and red wine as we watched the sun set on a beautiful day in Cappadocia.  We certainly felt much better after having some ‘down time’ this afternoon.

Photo:  Desley with the "fairy chimneys" as a backdrop.

Photo:  The beautiful landscape which we overlooked at sunset.

Dinner was a simple affair at a nearby restaurant and we wandered home exhausted after our early start for ballooning.  Hopefully a good night’s rest for everyone after a long day will help everyone recover sufficiently for the 8am start!

Gaziantep –Cappadocia (Avanos)Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Weather:  Sunny and warm

Temperature:  low twenties

We knew today was going to be a long day as the itinerary said 6.5 hours driving time.  We had stocked up on some dried fruit, nuts, chips etc after dinner last night in readiness for the long haul.

The drive passed fertile farms with intense green when we were heading west however the farms gave way to more arid land as we headed north and went higher into the Taurus Mountains.  The mountains still had snow on them in the distance and the snow line was evident on the hillsides with cultivated fir farms just beneath.

Photo:  Passing through the Taurus Mountains with the obvious snow line.

The houses were obviously different due to the severe winter weather and the roofs were built steeply to cope with heavy snowfalls.   They were a stark contrast to the flat roof houses we have seen all along the way.

We stopped for an early lunch at a service station an hour out of Nigde.  It was a quick stop as we had a schedule to meet and we were on our way to meet our guide’s boss in Nigde.  The owner hosted us to a cay (tea), asked us questions and vice versa and then we were onto Derinkuyu Underground City.   Along the way the farms were quite diverse and crops included pumpkins and potatoes.

Ergun, our very honest guide told us that they have to choose which underground areas to visit as Americans are much bigger people and consequently wider passages have to be chosen.   I’m not sure what the only American on board thought!  Fortunately, even after all the food we have eaten we managed to fit in the smaller passages.

We were in for a fabulous surprise with Derinkuyu as we spent about two hours exploring the multi-layers of this refuge for ancient civilisations in times of invasion.  The Hittites have been reputed to have been living in these dwellings since 4000 BC and they have been expanded over time when required.  The city could hold ten thousand people over four square kilometres.

Photo:  Showing the underground cave homes.

On the first level were the stables with water troughs – every first level was given over to the animals and served as an early warning system.  The second level was the kitchen where food was slowly cooked with a meagre fire to minimise being detected.  Three chimneys were seen in this particular kitchen which lead up to pumice stone in the chimney which diffused the smoke to the outside.

There were many stairs (one member counted 113 in one section which also was very narrow and small) and convoluted rooms and levels which were quite confusing.  Most remarkable was the effort that the people took to carve out of rock the many rooms, stairs and even a cross-like church.  There were various manners of defence including a large stone door which could be pushed across the tunnel and traps which would have been impossible to spot in the dimly lit conditions.

After visiting the missionary school on a level near the exit the lights went out for about ten seconds.  I stood stock still – everything was pitch black until people pulled out mobile phones and torches.  I’m not sure how often this happens but it sure gave us a good idea of how dark it was for the inhabitants.

One of our fellow travellers described the tunnelled houses as a human ant farm…..and I couldn’t have agreed more!

There were little souvenir shops just outside which sold everything from tablecloths, magnets, postcards….you name it!  There were local ladies selling home-made dolls and they were gorgeous so I purchased one and hopefully have a great picture of the lady who made it.  Desley finally found a great tablecloth.

Photo:  The lovely lady who made the colourful home-made dolls.

The next stop was to a wine tasting centre overlooking the Red Valley our guide very aptly described as Arizona!  The sun produced a yellow glow over the rocky surfaces and we all snapped away before entering the building for the tasting.  We tried three different wines….they became progressively better and we purchased a red to have on tour for any other wonderful sunsets where we can sit and take in the scenery.

Following the road down into Goreme we pulled over to see the houses which had been carved out of eroded volcanic material.  They are no longer lived in as the inhabitants were relocated by the government in the 1950’s.  Winding our way down the road we pulled into Goreme Panoramic Lookout to view the fairy houses and Red Valley as the backdrop.  The unusual homes were starting to light up with the fading daylight and we could see why they are called fairy houses. 

Photos:  Homes carved out of volcanic rock.

It was then onto Kapadokya Ballooning to pay for our tickets for our hot air balloon ride in the morning.  The rides are not cheap at two hundred dollars each however everyone who we have met has said it is an experience not to be missed.

We strolled through Goreme and made our way back to the restaurant for the evening.  At last we were going to try a dish we had seen in Istanbul and which had intrigued us greatly.  A waiter delivers a pottery pot to the table and with a large knife cuts through the middle where a line has been baked in the pottery process.  I ordered chicken and David had the lamb.  The slow cooking produces a wonderfully tender mixture however I could not do it justice as I wasn’t particularly hungry.  By this stage David was quite unwell with a head cold and needed to get back to the hotel room.

Photo:  Desley and Cameron with the pot ready to be cut.  Note the red wine...it has been many days since any alcohol has been able to be served with dinner!

It had been a very long day and the thought of an afternoon off tomorrow afternoon seems really appealing!

Tomorrow morning we are to meet in the lobby for a 5.40am pick-up to our ballooning adventure…..expect some spectacular photos!

Sanilurfa –Gaziantep Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Weather:  sunny

Temperature:  high twenties.

We set off at 8.30 am to visit Eski Halfeti the new town above the Birecik Dam,  one of four dams (including Ataturk) on the Euphrates.  The dam has given a new lease of life to the valley and we passed many kilometres of pistachio trees so it is little wonder that Gaziantep is known as the pistachio capital of Turkey.

Photo:  On the way down to catch our boat to cruise on the Euphrates.

The view down to the little village showed the wide expanse of water created from the dam as well as the picture perfect conditions….the mountains reflected beautifully in the water.  Amusingly, we were serenaded by a violinist as we moved towards the boat playing ‘Love Story’….Where do I begin…?  We were then all aboard a boat with a viewing platform to take us up the Euphrates to see the remains of an old Roman castle, Hittite stone caves and the remnants of a submerged village.

Photo:  The huge gap carved out of the mountain to prevent access to the old Roman castle.

Photo:  The minaret which survived the flooding.

We could not have wished for a more perfect day as we had a cloudless cerulean blue sky above us and deep teal green water below us that was as smooth as glass providing brilliant reflections.  We all went snap happy!  A lonely minaret stood above the water line with just a hint of a roof indicating the site of the village which was submerged in the dam project.

Photo:  Heading back to the pavilion where we enjoyed lunch.

After an hour we were back at the lunch pavilion where a long table had been set and we enjoyed the local char-grilled trout from the Euphrates with an interesting salad of tomato, parsley and mint.  Accompanying this were thinly sliced onions with a spice sprinkled over it.

We drove into Gaziantep which has a population of one and a half million.  Our first stop was the Zeugma Mozayk Muzesi – the Zeugma Mosiac Museum - which was officially opened only two weeks ago.  This museum has been built as a direct result of old Zeugma (2^nd and 3^rd century AD), a Roman town of 20 thousand acres which was to be submerged by the Birecik Dam.   The town was rediscovered in 1974 and revealed finely detailed mosaics.  Thirty percent remains under the dam however the museum has displayed the surviving panels in a beautiful manner with subtle lighting and meaningful supportive documentation.

Photo:  Demonstrating the fineness of detail in these beautiful mosaics.

Of particular interest is the exquisite mosaic of The Gypsy Girl which is housed in a separate darkened black marble room complete with a body guard.  It really does rival the Mona Lisa for beauty and I wondered how come none of us had ever heard of this beautiful work.  The museum also houses a very unusual bronze statue of Mars who is depicted with a very angry face.  His eyes have gold inlaid eyes and he is displayed atop a tall column.

Photo:  The Gypsy Girl.

We have seen a lot of mosaics on our trip but the works today were the best we have seen.  The details could be attributed to the smallness of the tiles as contours and muscle tone were evident in the people.

Another very interesting and novel attraction just inside the entrance captures a lot of attention.  In Roman times mosaics were used at the bottom of pools in a central courtyard.  At the museum a projection of pool mosiacs are projected onto the museum floor and fish are shown swimming among leaves.....a mini movie picture on the floor!  It is a very colourful and unusual  display.

Photos: The projections on the museum floor....you can see the squares of the real tiles underneath.

Later in the afternoon our guide led us to the metalworkers to show us how they make their wares as well as assist us in our purchases.   The street housed many metalwork shops and the banging on the metalwork could sometimes be deafening.

We then wandered up further to a leather shoe shop and most of us succumbed to a pair of comfortable shoes for the princely sum of fifty-five lira.  The bazaar was only a little further on and we wandered around there for a time before we all met up and made our way back to our hotel.

Ergun, our guide had promised a great dinner (again!) and once again we weren’t disappointed.  I tried Ali Nizak which is a rich meat dish covered with yoghurt.  To follow we all tried two different pieces of baklava as Gaziantep is also well known as the best producer in Turkey….even Ergun’s boss rang through today to put an order in to be delivered to him personally tomorrow!  The baklavas were subtle and not too sweet.  One was distinctly buttery and the other had very fine phyllo pastry.

Tomorrow we are heading to Cappadocia where our guide comes from.  This will be an interesting experience as he thinks his hometown is the best…..his favourite expression is: ‘you will love it!’ 

And so more adventures are yet to come…………….

Kahta - Sanliurfa (Urfa) Monday, 3 October 2011

Weather:  beautiful – sunny and warm

Temperature:  mid to high twenties

Today we set off for Urfa under brilliant blue skies.  Our first stop was beside the Euphrates on our way to Ataturk Dam where several members of our tour tried their hardest to skim pebbles on this ancient river.  Just a short drive up the road we were able to see the dam wall which is a very impressive 169 metres high and is the ninth largest in the world covering 927 square kilometres.  We took the time to take in the setting whilst sitting under a pavilion sipping a cay or apple tea. I wish I could say the toilets we availed ourselves of were equally impressive however I think the one Turkish lira was more about access than cleaning!  The word ‘grim’ springs to mind……

Photo:  Desley standing with the Euprhates as a backdrop.

Photo:  The massive dam wall.

The dam has brought life to a once desolate valley and we passed many farms including cotton, pistachio and corn.

As we entered Urfa which is described as a pilgrim’s city I wondered if it was Turkish for ‘concrete apartments’ - so we were in for a surprise when we finally reached the centre.  Urfa has a distinctly middle-eastern feel as it is very close to Syria.  In fact this is the closest we will get to Syria (about 30 kms) which is just as well as we have heard that there are problems at the western borders.

We went straight to lunch in one of the massive old stone houses which had been converted into a hotel and restaurant.  Ergun, our guide, had done a wonderful job organising the traditional and once again mouth-watering lunch in the former underground cellar which had vaulted ceilings and the low Turkish seats with pillows. 

Photo:  Our lunch...yes, I know, this is starting to look like an eating tour of Turkey!

Another member of our tour celebrated a birthday and Ergun organised a cake.  Ever the trickster he convinced (most of us) that there was a problem with the electricity and the lights had to be dimmed for several minutes.  Of course, this was the cue for the really delicious chocolate birthday cake.

A backdrop of a long deserted but reasonably preserved castle – Urfa Cales – sits high on the large hill overlooking the town.  Our next stop was just below the castle and we spent a lazy walk around the Ibrahim and Zeli Ha pools as well as visiting the cave Ibrahim is said to have spent some of his childhood.  An arcaded wall surrounds the Ibrahim pool with the sacred carp which if eaten, as legend says, will make a person go blind.  Desley purchased some pellets for the fish from one of the local vendors and the water bubbled up in front of her…they must be very well fed fish with the half a dozen little trolleys selling the food!

Photo:  Pool of Ibrahim with the sacred fish.

We donned our scarves once again to enter the cave site however we were also required to wear long robes as there is a strong Arabic influence in this town.  The women and men wear the scarves of their sect including the Kurdish who wear vivid purple and the men who wear the traditional salvar (traditional baggy Arabic pants).

Just nearby we wandered into the bazaar which was very busy and colourful.  A variety of deeply hued spices drawn up into cones rose out of canvas bags and long beads of drying pods hung from the shop fronts.  We were a little overawed and those who fell by quickly found their way into the centre of the caravanserai for an apple tea and to take time to see the men drinking their Turkish coffees and playing games.  We were really transported back in time as we took in the ancient atmosphere of this wonderful place.

Photo:  At the bazaar....spices anyone....anyone?

Photo:  Men enjoying their cay and a game of cards in the caravanserai.

We had one more visit before we booked into our hotel.  Harran is believed to be one of the oldest continuously lived in spots on earth.  It is an ancient city noted for its beehive houses.  They are made out of mud and straw and are cool in summer and warm in winter.  The houses are now only used for tourist visits however they have been remarkably preserved.  The general area was very poor with dirt streets and block-like houses. 

Photo:  The famous beehive houses at Harran.

Photo:  A lovely local couple paused briefly from their chores to smile for our camera!

Photo:  Their neighbours (I think they said their names were Mary and Joseph) stopped by to check out the Australian tourists!

Harran is also famous for the Ulu mosque which lies in ruins just outside the small village.  One very large square minaret remains and some arched walls. It was built in Hellenistic times however it was destroyed by the Mongolians in the thirteenth century.

It was back to our hotel for an hour and then we headed out to dinner.  It started off as a delightful balmy evening but it cooled down considerably by the time we were ready to head back to the hotel.

Once again our guide led us to another adventure:  atop the Urfa Casel (Urfa Castle) we sat outside overlooking the lit mosque and gardens we had visited earlier in the day. 

We had a bit of fun ordering an apple hookah…there is a Turkish word for this….however the practice comes from Iran.  Following our guide we tried the apple flavour which bubbled through the water.   After many photos to make sure we could prove to family and friends back home that we had tried this we followed with another Turkish dessert…..not that we needed this but it was a subtle sweet flavour and yet another version of the kadayif.

Photo:  Some tourists will try anything!

Photo:  ....and the others followed!

It was back to the hotel after another adventurous day….

Day 8: Darende – Kahta – Sunday, 2 October 2011

Weather – sunny….a glorious day!

Temperature:  mid-twenties during the day.

We set off at 8am today as we had a big drive ahead of us to reach Kahta then onto see Mt Nemrut National Park which was described in the guide book as the most impressive in Turkey.

The landscape after Darende became increasingly sparse as we drove higher up into the mountains.  In the valleys below we could see green outcrops and eventually we came closer to the farms to see the crops being cultivated.  There were multitudinous farms growing apricots so we figured the trees must be pretty hardy as the snow line was evident surrounding the valleys.  Tobacco plants were in abundance and many fields were being harvested.  As we drove through several villages we could see the leaves hanging upside down and drying.

Photo:  ...on our way!

After three and a half hours of driving we arrived in Adiyaman for lunch.  This is a very large town and is the major centre supporting the agricultural demands of the area.  As time was of the essence to reach Mt Nemrut for sunset Ergun our guide rang ahead and arranged traditional pides from the area to be served with lunch.  The pides were a meat and onion concoction with a lovely hint of chilli.  A quick race to grab icecreams from the little corner shop and we were back on the bus on our way to Kahta for our overnight stay.

After booking in we quickly gathered warm attire as we were told Mt Nemrut would be a cold expedition.  As the roads were smaller the hotel (Zeus Hotel) we stayed at provided two mini vans to take us to the major sites in the area.

Our first stop was the Karakus Tumulus which was built in 1^st century BC.  It is a huge man-made hill purportedly housing the tombs of three separate graves:  a daughter, a wife and a sister of King Mithridates II.  This was a fun visit as there were literally hundreds of a particular religious group gathered for the day to picnic and listen to a concert.  Our visit caused quite a stir and the head man insisted on meeting us and welcoming us.  We had numerous photos taken and many older students learning English accompanied us as we circumnavigated this significant tumulus. 

Photo:  Being greeted by the locals at Karakus Tumulus.

Several columns still remain with an eagle and lion atop two of the columns. The views were spectacular of Attaturk Dam on the Euphrates from here which is the fourth largest in the world.

Photo:  The enormous columns at Karakus Tumulus.

Onwards we travelled in little convoys as there were many nationalities using mini-vans to access Mt Nemrut National Park.  We stopped to walk across the Cendere Bridge which was built by Romans in 2AD.  It is in remarkably good condition and was only replaced a few years ago by a modern construction just a little way away.

Photo:  Ergun...our shy and retiring Turkish guide....at the Cendere Bridge.

From the road we could see an old fortress (Yeni Kale) high atop a hill.  This castle has been revised many times by succeeding civilisations however it ceased being used only eighty years ago by the villagers of old Kahta.

A couple of kilometres further on we followed Ergun up a steep winding path to a stone tomb not too unlike the ones we saw in Amasya.  The path then led onto another tomb with a large Greek inscription next to a huge relief of King Mithridates I shaking hands with the god Heracles.  We took turns taking lots of photos here before walking further up the hill to the original site of the summer palace.  From here we could see the old Kahta and another side of the fortress.

Photo:  King Mithridts and Heracles. 

As we headed on the forty minute ride to Mt Nemrut the road became windier, narrower and very bumpy.  Ergun had described earlier how the local people cut the branches off the oak trees and placed them into bundles in preparation for the animals for the long cold winters.  We saw many of these on the way.

Alighting from the vans the drop in temperature was very noticeable aided by a wind adding to the chill factor.  Suitably attired we began the ascent of Mt Nemrut which is a very stark rocky tumulus and the track can be quite tricky if not very sure footed.  One of our travellers took a donkey up as it is quite steep.

The journey up the rocky path surrounding the huge tumulus was rather like a pilgrimage and we felt blessed to be part of a truly wonderful experience.  Rounding the corner to the summit after the 25 minute hike is spell-binding as not only are the remaining statues very large but we were in awe as to how these figures and the mega tons of rocks could be carted up this 2150 metre mountain.  The heads lie in front of their seated remains:  lion;  eagle;  Tyche the Goddess of fortune;  Zeus in the centre;  King Atiochus and Artagnes.  The heads alone measure two metres tall.

Photo:  On the way up....shared with donkeys.

We circled the summit to the eastern side in preparation for the sunset.  The opposite side is no less spectacular with huge heads again of the gods and king.  We took our photos and we sat on a rock wall facing the sun, taking photos and soaking up the historical wonder of this enchanted site.  The weather was very cold with some wind however our clothing saved us from the rigours of being uncomfortable.

Photo:  Displaying the grandeur of the walk...can you spot Desley and I?

Photo:  David in front of the eastern side of the summit....more photos to come as our batteries failed before sunset!

 Ergun, our ever thoughtful guide had arranged to take up two bottles of red, some delicious halva he had purchased in Safranbolu and some sultana bread from Sinop.  David had the job of carting it up the rocky path from the bottom and I didn’t realise how heavy it was until I lifted it up at the top!

So as the sun set and we sipped our wine we realised how lucky we were to have the opportunity to enjoy this magical and somewhat spiritual experience and particularly to have fine weather.

After the sun set behind the distant mountains we quickly organised ourselves to take the path back to the vans before it became too dark. 

This was day which won’t be forgotten for a long time!

Sivas – Darende 1 October, 2011

Weather:  rainy in the morning followed by a sunny day.

Temperature:  very cold morning, low twenties

Breakfast was a bigger affair at our hotel today and with the usual fare of tomatoes, olives, cucumber and boiled eggs there was a table with several varieties of cereal as well as a table devoted to all sorts of biscuits.  My international drink, Nescafe, was on offer so I was happy!

Several members of the tour including our guide rushed off to the shop Desley and I had visited yesterday afternoon and purchased Turkish beanies.  We set off with many of the men wearing their recent purchases not necessarily because they were fun but because they genuinely helped keep their heads warm!

Photo:  Cameron, Ergun and David with the purchases.

Today was also the AFL grand final so texts were coming in updating us on the scores.  One member of the bus was a happy Cats supporter.

At Kangal we called into a dog kennel to view the famous Kangal dogs.  The owner was not at home - although this had been arranged so we drove back into town and wandered the streets much to the bemusement of the locals.  Our guide had found another place to visit and off we went.  The dogs are much revered and even appear on the Turkish stamp.  Kangals are very large dogs with very large paws (for the snow?) and are used to mind the sheep from savaging wolves.  Their ears are removed and they wear large barbed collars to protect the weakest part of their bodies from the wolves.

Photo:  Horse and cart in Kangal - we didn't stay out of the bus long here as it was so cold.

Photo:  A Kangal dog - note the ears and collar.

We passed the highest point of 1800 metres on our way to Gurun and the scenery was indicative of a harsh climate with sparse, if any, vegetation and the knowledge it receives a massive amount of snow in winter. 

Photo:  An arid landscape however not the poplar trees.

Photo: .....and another!

As we were trying to time the bus, visits and lunch Ergun went out early this morning to purchase rolls and bananas for us to eat on the bus.  The tomato, feta cheese and parsley went down well with our water – we have to purchase water on the way as we have been advised not to drink the water in Turkey.

At some stages of the way further down from the mountain there were houses with quite a few poplar trees around them.  We were informed that in some regions when a son is born the father plants them for later use and when he chooses a bride they are cut down and made into furniture.

We called into Gunpinar Waterfall for a wander to see the canyon, a much needed toilet break (squatting) and a hot cuppa:  cay, Nescafe and various herbal teas.  The area around the falls has been set up beautifully with many individual pergolas overlooking the water.

Photo:  David standing in front of the Gunpinar Waterfall we stopped for a break.

Photo:  ....another photo of the four of us...at the falls.

Photo:  the pavilions.

On arrival at Darende we visited a market set up by local women to support the poor in the area.  They were surprised by our visit and we were impressed with the efforts they were making for the community.  There were many beautiful pieces of knitwear for children as well as scarves so we willingly supported their wonderful cause.  Our guide was happy with us purchasing and he himself bought quite a few things.

Within a short distance of our hotel is a wonderful canyon which is set up very well with pavilions for tea in beautiful gardens, pavilions overlooking the rushing water, a waterwheel and swimming pools.  It is a very popular place to visit for the region and we can see why.  The waterway is also used for white water rafting.

Photo:  The lovely paviooions where people sit for meals and tea.

Photo:  Walking beside the canyon with three heated pools for bathing (18 degrees....and they call that heated although I imagine the rushing water is colder!)

Photo:  Looking down the canyon.

We had an early afternoon and we were grateful for some free time as being on tour can be tiring.  Our lovely guide arranged for drinks in one of the rooms as there is no alcohol in this very conservative town……actually, this is the third town in a row that has no alcohol.  He purchased two bottles of wine yesterday (he has his contacts!) to prepare for a surprise birthday party for one of our fellow travellers.  Ergun, our guide also arranged a cake and the birthday girl was very surprised.  We had a lovely time socialising before dinner in a large suite of another couple which had been arranged by Ergun to accommodate the merry band.

We had dinner at our hotel tonight as we are a little way out of town.  Once again a specialty dish of the area was recommended and the lamb, chilli, mushroom and vegetable dish went down very well.  Birthday cake and another local speciality dessert ended another Turkish feast!