Weather – sunny….a glorious day!
Photo: ...on our way!
Photo: Being greeted by the locals at Karakus Tumulus.
Photo: The enormous columns at Karakus Tumulus.
Photo: Ergun...our shy and retiring Turkish guide....at the Cendere Bridge.
Photo: King Mithridts and Heracles.
Photo: On the way up....shared with donkeys.
Photo: Displaying the grandeur of the walk...can you spot Desley and I?
Photo: David in front of the eastern side of the summit....more photos to come as our batteries failed before sunset!
Temperature: mid-twenties during the day.
We set off at 8am today as we had a big drive ahead of us to reach Kahta then onto see Mt Nemrut National Park which was described in the guide book as the most impressive in Turkey.
The landscape after Darende became increasingly sparse as we drove higher up into the mountains. In the valleys below we could see green outcrops and eventually we came closer to the farms to see the crops being cultivated. There were multitudinous farms growing apricots so we figured the trees must be pretty hardy as the snow line was evident surrounding the valleys. Tobacco plants were in abundance and many fields were being harvested. As we drove through several villages we could see the leaves hanging upside down and drying.
After three and a half hours of driving we arrived in Adiyaman for lunch. This is a very large town and is the major centre supporting the agricultural demands of the area. As time was of the essence to reach Mt Nemrut for sunset Ergun our guide rang ahead and arranged traditional pides from the area to be served with lunch. The pides were a meat and onion concoction with a lovely hint of chilli. A quick race to grab icecreams from the little corner shop and we were back on the bus on our way to Kahta for our overnight stay.
After booking in we quickly gathered warm attire as we were told Mt Nemrut would be a cold expedition. As the roads were smaller the hotel (Zeus Hotel) we stayed at provided two mini vans to take us to the major sites in the area.
Our first stop was the Karakus Tumulus which was built in 1st century BC. It is a huge man-made hill purportedly housing the tombs of three separate graves: a daughter, a wife and a sister of King Mithridates II. This was a fun visit as there were literally hundreds of a particular religious group gathered for the day to picnic and listen to a concert. Our visit caused quite a stir and the head man insisted on meeting us and welcoming us. We had numerous photos taken and many older students learning English accompanied us as we circumnavigated this significant tumulus.
Several columns still remain with an eagle and lion atop two of the columns. The views were spectacular of Attaturk Dam on the Euphrates from here which is the fourth largest in the world.
Onwards we travelled in little convoys as there were many nationalities using mini-vans to access Mt Nemrut National Park. We stopped to walk across the Cendere Bridge which was built by Romans in 2AD. It is in remarkably good condition and was only replaced a few years ago by a modern construction just a little way away.
From the road we could see an old fortress (Yeni Kale) high atop a hill. This castle has been revised many times by succeeding civilisations however it ceased being used only eighty years ago by the villagers of old Kahta.
A couple of kilometres further on we followed Ergun up a steep winding path to a stone tomb not too unlike the ones we saw in Amasya. The path then led onto another tomb with a large Greek inscription next to a huge relief of King Mithridates I shaking hands with the god Heracles. We took turns taking lots of photos here before walking further up the hill to the original site of the summer palace. From here we could see the old Kahta and another side of the fortress.
As we headed on the forty minute ride to Mt Nemrut the road became windier, narrower and very bumpy. Ergun had described earlier how the local people cut the branches off the oak trees and placed them into bundles in preparation for the animals for the long cold winters. We saw many of these on the way.
Alighting from the vans the drop in temperature was very noticeable aided by a wind adding to the chill factor. Suitably attired we began the ascent of Mt Nemrut which is a very stark rocky tumulus and the track can be quite tricky if not very sure footed. One of our travellers took a donkey up as it is quite steep.
The journey up the rocky path surrounding the huge tumulus was rather like a pilgrimage and we felt blessed to be part of a truly wonderful experience. Rounding the corner to the summit after the 25 minute hike is spell-binding as not only are the remaining statues very large but we were in awe as to how these figures and the mega tons of rocks could be carted up this 2150 metre mountain. The heads lie in front of their seated remains: lion; eagle; Tyche the Goddess of fortune; Zeus in the centre; King Atiochus and Artagnes. The heads alone measure two metres tall.
We circled the summit to the eastern side in preparation for the sunset. The opposite side is no less spectacular with huge heads again of the gods and king. We took our photos and we sat on a rock wall facing the sun, taking photos and soaking up the historical wonder of this enchanted site. The weather was very cold with some wind however our clothing saved us from the rigours of being uncomfortable.
Ergun, our ever thoughtful guide had arranged to take up two bottles of red, some delicious halva he had purchased in Safranbolu and some sultana bread from Sinop. David had the job of carting it up the rocky path from the bottom and I didn’t realise how heavy it was until I lifted it up at the top!
So as the sun set and we sipped our wine we realised how lucky we were to have the opportunity to enjoy this magical and somewhat spiritual experience and particularly to have fine weather.
After the sun set behind the distant mountains we quickly organised ourselves to take the path back to the vans before it became too dark.
This was day which won’t be forgotten for a long time!
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