Amasya – Sivas - 30 September 2011

Weather:  showery/cloudy and cold conditions with a wind factor.

Temperature:  mid-teens to late teens.

As the ancient tomb site was closed yesterday afternoon we set off this morning at 8.30am to walk over the Yesilirmak River foot bridge to the hills above the town.  The tombs are behind the old houses and we had a reasonably short steep climb to access the tombs.  They date back to 3^rd century BC and are attributed to the Pontic Kings who had them carved out of the stone in the mountains.  Altogether there are eighteen around the town and all have been plundered.

Photo:  Desley and the group standing outside one of the massive rock-cut tombs.

Photo:  One of all of us...yes we are travelling together!  Traditional Ottoman houses in the background and the tombs are carved above these.

After leaving Amasya we noticed a considerable difference with the countryside and as we were going higher the land had very little vegetation with the occasional short evergreen bush. 

Our first stop was Tokat another town with a very long history.  This visit was not on our itinerary but several of the travellers asked to be able to purchase fruit.  While we were refuelling our guide asked for advice which led us to the old caravanserai (1631) now given over to a coffee shop in the centre and the outer enclosed square to shops selling lots of interesting wares.  Ergun, our guide loved the place and we had a great time shopping as well as enjoying a sebek – a hot thick milk drink with cinnamon sprinkled on the top.

Photo:  The caravanerai at Tokat.  Shops surrounded this enclosed area.

It was then onwards for another hour to Sivas which was the centre of the 12^th century Seljuk Empire however like many towns we have come across they have all had a long history of invasion.  We dropped off our cases at the hotel and after an hour’s rest headed out walking around Sivas taking in the interesting sites. 

Photos:  The wall of the healing centre with the spectacular blue minarets;  the tree of life on the law faculty;  the minaret (leaning) at Umi Camii.

The weather had really cooled down and there was a fair breeze blowing so we really felt cold for the first time and had dressed accordingly.

We called into four ancient buildings:  Ulu Camii which has a spectacular brick minaret and has a lean not unlike the Leaning Tower of Pisa (a mosque restored to its former splendour and noted for its 35 arched columns in the interior); the science faculty built in 1300 AD; the Sifalye Medresesi or the healing centre (1217 -1218 AD) and the faculty of law (1271) noted for its blue minarets and the tree of life carved on the front of entrance.

The science faculty has been converted to a café with the side areas lined with padded seats.  As it was very windy and cold our guide took us here to relax, have a break and order some cay (tea), Turkish coffees and apple teas. A street vendor sold us some sesame bread for 50 Turkish lira (30 cents) which was enjoyable with our drinks.

Photo:  A great respite from the wind and cold at the old science faculty.

We had some free time before dinner so Desley and I headed out to the shops for a look around.  There were many jewellery shops and after looking at least twenty it all became overwhelming!

We had a bit of fun and Desley bought Cameron a traditional Turkish beanie.  Everyone loved it so the group are heading back in the morning to have a buy up…the poor fellow had better be ready for an Australian invasion!

Dinner was pre-booked and Ergun recommended the Iskander kebab which is well known from this area.  Bread is fried and thinly sliced meat is placed on the top followed by a tomato sauce.  Yoghurt is served on the side and we all found the dish to be absolutely delicious.  Another dessert sampling time came at the end of the meal.  It was the same dessert as last night however this one was served with cheese inside instead of walnuts…it hit the right spot as it wasn’t too sweet.

Photo:  The Iskander kebab...yum!

We had a cold walk back to the hotel and we discussed if it was going to be colder on the trip however the general consensus was that as Sivas was so high (1275 metres) in the Anatolian mountains it would be naturally colder.  Apparently it dips to 25 degrees below in winter…..hmmm, when I heard that I knew I shouldn’t be whinging about the cold!

All in all, it was a very interesting day!

Sinop – Amasya – Thursday, 29 September 2011.

Temperature:  mid-twenties with a very cool evening.

Weather: sunny

As we were readying for the bus many of us went to the little restaurant we had dined at the previous evening and picked up our order of a sultana bun famous in the area.  The owner had wrapped up the warm bun in alfoil for us and placed it in a bag all ready for pick up.

Photo:  the sultana bun made for us and collected early in the morning.

Photos:  Being ever resourceful civilizations used rubble from previous settlements to expand the massive wall.

Photo:  Desley and I at the mouth of the inlet to the fjord.

Before we set off to our next town we explored Sinop further by stopping off to see the statue of Diogenes, the founder of Cynic philosophy and who made a virtue of poverty. He begged for a living and slept in a barrel in the marketplace.  Diogenes made his way to Greece and died in Corinth.

We walked across the road to the old castle which was constructed in 7^th century BC.  It has a significant history and was restored by the Romans, Byzantine and Seljuk Turks.  The outer walls are three metres thick however the inside wall was only added in the past hundred or so years to build a jail.  It was last used in the mid-nineties and housed criminals as well as political activists which was pretty alarming as conditions were grim.

About half an hour out of town we visited a fjord made famous because of the Crimean War in 1853.  The Russians invaded without warning and there were countless losses however a small fleet of Ottoman vessels were able to hide in a fjord a little away from Sinop.  The area is particularly beautiful with very clear water.

As we drove along the changing of the season was becoming evident with the leaves of the trees turning yellow and brown.  We have been very fortunate with the weather with another magnificent sunny day although the evenings have definitely become very cool.

Our lunchtime stop at Duragan was very interesting as the tables turned on us and suddenly we were the tourist attractions!  As very few tourists visit this town the mayor sent a policeman to negotiate with our guide to ask if we would mind having our pictures taken at their newly renovated kervan sarayi.  As there was time we drove a little way to the site and met with the  photographer who busily took photos of us while we visited the kervan sarayi and mosque.  The people were very friendly and we had a happy time.  When we were leaving an old gentleman in traditional vest and cap hopped onto the bus to wish us a safe journey and that God may look over us.  Ergun, our guide did a lot of translating at this lunch break!

Photos:  the little cafe where our visit caused quite a stir.  David and I enjoyed a delicious lentil soup, drink and bread for Australian $4.50.

Photo: Getting ready to enter the mosque at Duragan.

Photo:  a lovely gentleman from the town wishing us well.

We crossed over the Kizilimak River (also known as the Red River) and learnt it was the longest river in Turkey!  It is used for irrigation for rice fields and we saw many of these around Duragan.  The level was quite low in areas as the winter rains feed the river.

Our last stop for the day was Amasya which is a very ancient town going back to Neolithic times. The museum was very informative and well displayed.  It actually houses about eight mummies from the area which are preserved under glass.  The little Hittite figurine of the God of Air and Sky dated from fifteenth century BC.

After settling into our hotel it was time for a walk to a beautifully preserved mosque – Sultan II Bayezid built by the Seljuk Turks in 1500 AD.  It is surrounded by lovely and beautifully kept gardens.  The oak tree at the front of the mosque was planted in the 1400s.  Donning our headscarves and removing our shoes we were permitted inside.  It is very plain inside with some exquisite painted patterns on the two domes.

Photo:  Sultan II Bayezid Mosque.

We were setting off to visit the tombs on the hill however they were closed so we are going to see them first thing after breakfast.  We could see the tombs just above the township and as the sun set they were lit up for the evening.  To fill in time before dinner our guide showed us some very impressive Seljurk mosques.  One was built in 1237 and had a very interesting spiral minaret.

Photo:  Traditional houses over the river in central Amasya.

Photo:  Burmali Minare Camii- Mosque with Spiral Minaret.

Dinner was at one of Amasya’s old houses over the river.  We are becoming very adventurous with our food and tonight I had keskek (beans and veal).  Desley and another traveller had their wishes granted and had meat and salad!  They had been yearning for it for days. 

A stroll back to the hotel with some of our fellow travellers buying ice-creams (even in cold conditions) ended a very pleasant day.

Amasra – Sinop Wednesday, 28 September 2011

Weather:  Sunny

Temperature:  early twenties

This morning we awoke early to hear the Imman over the loud speaker calling the faithful to prayer.  I couldn’t go back to sleep after that so in the end it was a long day.  Today was the first day at breakfast without yoghurt and so I gazed over the tomatoes, cucumber, boiled eggs, sliced meat and cheese but eventually settled on bread and jam.  As well, there was a stroke of luck – instant Nescafe!  I never thought I would get excited over instant coffee (except in a staff room!) but this was the first time I could manage my own caffeine dose as all the coffees have been so strong.

We had another efficient start and we were on our way to the saffron capital of Turkey – Safranbolu.  The area was quite lush on the way with many half-domed plastic covered green-houses growing vegetables.  Most houses have their own vegetable gardens.

Safranbolu is a world heritage site and includes some wonderful old houses overlooking the valley with winding cobblestone streets.  Our first visit was to a sweet shop (which was an original old three storey house) where our guide took us upstairs to the salon area and we sipped on saffron tea – a very subtle flavour.   We then all wandered downstairs to try authentic saffron Turkish Delight and a host of other varieties…talk about kids in a lolly shop!

Photo:  In the Turkish Delight shop with our saffron teas.

Photo:  the delightful salon on the second floor where we sat.

Wandering the streets was so much fun.  Safranbolu is a popular tourist town for the region but it is a little off the beaten track for international tourists.  The local traders were very polite and we bought some tablecloths – Ergun our guide had a busy time translating.  We then found the little bakery he had pointed out to us earlier and bought some bread stuffed with some mixed fillings and soft drinks and sat on a seat under a tree nearby. 

Photo: wandering the streets.

Photo:  the ironmongers and forge.

In the centre of the town is a Kervan Sarayi which is a large area used by the traders centuries ago on their way to other trading centres. They were permitted to stay for three to four nights free but they had to be in before lock up time at sundown and not permitted to leave until sunrise.

We had an informative visit to one of the old houses preserved as it was originally in Ottoman times in the 18th century.  It was once again over three levels and with many rooms all with wonderful old carpets.

Moving onto our overnight stop took several hours and the landscape became more arid.  In one area the locals have developed a rather unique albeit backbreaking method of hindering erosion on the arid hills.  They dig sticks into the ground and then intertwine soft branches between them.  I’ll enclose a photo to give you an idea.  I noticed one group of about ten locals, men and women (wearing long skirts and shirts, vests and scarves) working at taking the branches from the tractor and plaiting the leafy branches.

Sinop is a coastal town on the Black Sea which has a significant history.  It is a fortified town used from Hittite times around 700BC.  It became well known in the 18^th century as Russia invaded Sinop to conquer Asia Minor which then precipitated the Crimean War and involved England and France.

We followed our leader over to the fortress for the sunset and drinks on top of the fort which gave us fantastic views to the harbour.  It was a lovely time of the day to sit back and take in the views and this time not be blown away like yesterday!  It was then onto dinner for the famous local ravioli dish of the area and our guide had organised for us to try both the yoghurt and walnut types.  Both were delicious.

Photo:  Cameron and Desley on the promenade at Sinop.

All in all it was a very interesting day. Tomorrow we are exploring a little more of Sinop before we head off to our next overnight stay.

Istanbul – Amasra Tuesday, 27 September 2011

Weather – sunny with strong afternoon breezes

Temperature – early twenties and 18 degrees at 6.30pm

Today we all met at 8am in the lobby to load our cases on the bus for an efficient getaway of 8.15am.  The bus holds approximately twenty-five passengers so there is some room for the fifteen people on board to spread out.

We drove for about seven hours today although it didn’t feel like this as we stop every two hours.  Interestingly, the buses are fitted with a computer chip which records the hours driving and rest time for the driver and the rules are governed strictly.  As Istanbul has an estimated population of 15 million people you can imagine how spread out the city is.  It took us one and a quarter hours to leave the city limits and feel we had left this sprawling metropolis behind.

The countryside opened up to some farming land and small towns however the area is predominantly forest with evidence of logging.  The towns we went through were very neat and the people obviously have pride in their areas.  We could see very little graffiti which was also the case in Istanbul.

Our first stop for morning tea and for some of the ladies in the group it was their first introduction to squatting toilets and no flush.  The jug is left filled for the next person.  I’m sure the area is clean however I think it will take some time for me to be used to the wet floors in the toilet area.

We stopped for lunch at a large service station attached to a department store selling just about everything.  We could pick up Turkish-made men’s shirts for fifteen Turkish lira (about $8 Australian)……we did joke that we had now found an authentic Turkish souvenir however none of us bought any!

I chose chicken soup for lunch as I’m rather tired of overeating!  The soup was delicious so I’ll be looking out for more of it if I can.

We arrived at around 4pm at Amasra  which is a delightful coastal town on the Black Sea.  It has a fortified area and castle which has been added to over the many centuries by the Romans and Byzantines.  The castle reflects the importance of the area during the middle ages and there were remnants of the seals left in the walls of conquerors of the area. 

Photo:  Looking over to the delightful coastal village of Amasra.

Photo:  lots of souvenir shops and local wares particularly the silver and copper embroidery famous in this area.

We followed our guide around the village, inspected the beautiful views from the bridge to the island and then we walked a little way to take in the sunset over the town.  We were served Turkish cay (tea) or Turkish coffee from a little van on the hill.  It was then onwards and upwards to circle the island and take in the sunset over the township.  The breeze was very strong and we were feeling the cold – a big difference in temperature for all of us and we were contemplating just how much colder it was going to get on the trip.  This is the last Peregrine trip for the year....there may be a reason for this!

Photo:  one of the many wooden homes in the area.  Traditionally, animals were kept in the first floor with a double flooring above it and then two smaller floors above.

Photo:  part of the large fortress wall built over many centuries.

Photo:  one of the gardens on our walk through the village.

Photo:  view from the top - a great part of the day taking in Amasra.

Amasra is popular beachside holiday spot for the Turks and boasts many alleyways devoted to souvenirs.  Many of the shops sold local embroidery which has been stitched in real silver and copper.

After our early evening break we met up for dinner and enjoyed an Amasra Salad which is served with twenty-five ingredients.  This was a welcome break in our diet to have fresh salad.  Accompanying this was a platter of freshly cooked and battered fish followed by yoghurt and honey.  We aren’t too far out yet as we were able to order a bottle of red!

Photo:  Amasra Salad - known for its twenty five ingredients.

It was then home to shower and get ourselves organised as breakfast is at 7am and the bus leaves at 8am. 

Istanbul – Monday, 26 September 2011

Weather – sunny with coolish breezes

Temperature:  mid-twenties

Today was the first day with our tour group and we met at 8.30am in the hotel foyer for a walking tour of Istanbul.   Yesterday and today we could sense a change in the air and autumn was stirring with a few cold breezes and a definite drop in the temperature.

First stop was the Topkapi Palace a short walk from our hotel.

Today was an example of what we should have been doing yesterday: set off early and belong to a group!!  We entered the palace shortly after 8.45am and the crowds were already developing. 

Photo:  Desley at Topkapi Palace.

The Topkapi Palace began being constructed in the 1460s following the conquest of Istanbul by Sultan Mehmed II and was completed in 1478.  The palace was built in stages and at times held 4000 people.  A 31 km wall was built around the complex on the peninsular as defence and can still be seen today in remarkable condition.  The palace was built on top of the hill and came under the Ottoman conquest in 1453.  

There are many buildings on the site including the Tower, kitchens, audience hall with throne, library and the treasury.

Photo:  At last... a photo of all four of us.  Under the golden roof the Sultan sat watching the sunset during Ramadan (Topkapi Palace).

I must admit I felt as if I had fallen into a book of Aladdin’s Lamp that I knew as a young child as the amount of jewels in the treasury was stunning.  We saw emeralds as wide as a cup, gold thrones one and half metres across, gold candlesticks one and half metres high and diamonds of 52 and 86 carat surrounded by brilliant cut smaller diamonds.  Interestingly, the last diamond was found on a rubbish dump by a pedlar and sold for three spoons and eventually identified by a jeweller who came to the attention of the sultan.  The diamond is massive and was used by a sultan on his turban.

I stood in awe of at least fifty very large cut emeralds in a gold and emerald encrusted box measuring at least twelve inches by nine inches. 

The complex included the Circumcision Room, two pavilions, the Golden Roof, the Sultans’ clothes, and the Room of the Relics.  We spent several hours being informed by our guide and came away well informed. 

We stopped for a morning break and then we were off for a visit to the Basilica Cistern which is near the Hagia Sophia.  This enormous cistern was built in the sixth century AD and as much as I had no understanding of what a cistern was I was truly overwhelmed by its serene majesty.  The underground system is made up of 336 columns which was formerly the agora and subsequently converted/covered into the water supply for Byzantine Empire.

Photo:  The bottom of a column depicting the head of Medusa at the Cistern Basilica.

Our guide, Ergun, then took us to lunch at a little cafe after a reasonable walk.    Its entrance was small but opened up to a bigger area in the back.  By this stage we were all looking forward to sitting down and having a break.  Ergun was most helpful in our choices and we enjoyed delicious Turkish lunches and drinks.

Our next visit was the Blue Mosque which was built in 1600.  We visited only a few days ago but we were grateful for the extra information afforded by our guide.  We donned scarves once again and placed our shoes in plastic bags.  The area was regarded as a caravanserai and included hostels, schools, shops, cemeteries and kitchens.  The tiles cover the entire mosque and are particularly beautiful. 

Photo:  Showing one of the four normous elephant columns which hold up the dome of the Blue Mosque.

Photo:  On entering the Blue Mosque you notice the five levels representing the five steps:  to pray five times a day;  to fast at Ramadam;  to share wealth;  to visit Mecca once in a lifetime;  to testify that Muhammad is the last prophet and that God is great.

We moved onto the hippodrome to view the Egyptian obelisk we saw a few days ago and then onto the Grand Bazaar.

Our guide gave us an hour to visit and off we set for another adventure of losing ourselves amongst 4000 shops!  This time we felt more confident and we purchased some turquoise after a little bartering.  Goodness knows if we achieved a good price but we like what we bought.

We all managed to find our way back to Gate One of the Grand Bazaar and then followed our guide back to our hotel.  Our next meeting was for dinner at 7.30pm in the foyer. 

Ergun took us to a lovely restaurant which specialised in seafood not too far from our hotel.  We enjoyed the company of our new travellers over a few wines, beers and delicious food.

Tomorrow we leave Istanbul and discover wider pastures……

Istanbul – Sunday, 25 September 2011

Weather – Sunny

Temperature – high twenties.

Today we set out for a hop on/hop off bus tour of Istanbul.  Before we found a bus we had some important work to do:  drop off clothes to the local laundromat to get ready for the tour.  The lady was lovely, no English, but was obviously practised as she weighed our bags and quoted prices for washing and ironing extra.

Suffice to say twenty-twenty hindsight would be a wonderful gift as we probably would have managed our visit to Dolmabahce Palace (another must-see!) quite differently.  We caught the bus at 10am and this is how our day unfolded:

10am:  left Hagia Sophia Square;

10.15:  arrived at Dolmabahce Palace and went through security and joined the queue for tickets;

11.00:  finally bought four tickets for the tour of the palace and harem and realised the earliest we could enter the palace was 12.20pm as they had staggered entries because of the vast numbers of people;

11.05:  decided to stay on site, relax, go with the flow and have morning tea overlooking the Bosphorus to avoid going through security again.  As we were held captive the service was slow – but hey, we had the time!  We managed to see two changing of the guards as they change on the hour;

12.20:  entered palace grounds and found our way to the entrance steps of the palace and queued…waiting for the next English tour at -

12.40: but there were too many people so we waited for the next tour at -

12.55:  and after donning pink plastic bootees we finally entered the palace!

I wish I could show you photos however they are not allowed.

Immediately we were in awe as we looked at the magnificent interior.  It is a vast palace of very large rooms, massive chandeliers (hanging and freestanding), paintings and luxurious furnishings.

Some of the highlights included the crystal staircase (actually the bannisters are Baccarat crystal with walnut handrails), the elephant tusk ornament which was a gift from Saudi Arabia, two bear skin rugs a gift from the tsar of Russia, the tiled fireplaces, gold leaf ceilings and the incredible amount of rooms.

The Throne Room was outstanding as it housed a four and half ton Baccarat chandelier which was a gift from Queen Victoria.  The chandelier has 750 lamps.  The palace has the largest collection of Bohemian and Baccarat crystal chandeliers in the world.

We left our tour of the palace and headed to the rear to inspect the harem.  Yes, you have probably guessed it….another queue!  Fortunately , it was only for ten minutes.

Donning our plastic shoe covers we spent a lovely time exploring the harem.  It is not as showy as the main palace although the greeting room was on a par.  The Blue Room was our favourite which once again housed a marvellous central chandelier and four free standing chandeliers in the corners of the room.

Photo:  Standing in front of the entrance to the palace.

Photo:  at last - inside and the gardens were exquisite.  We didn't know at this stage there was yet another queue lurking behind the trees behind the fountain!

Photo:  The lovely grounds in the Harem's Garden.

We eventually left the palace grounds just after 3pm.  Would we have done it again?  Yes, it was well worth the visit but next time we’ll get a tram and head out very early to avoid the crush of the crowds….either that or join a group tour as they get preferential treatment!

We once again caught the hop-on hop-off bus … without any waiting time, a first for the day and decided to complete the loop of the city and have a very late lunch and early dinner.  The bus travelled over the Bosphorus Bridge and it was blowing a gale!  We were sitting at the top of the windowless bus with our audio guides plugged in hanging onto anything not strapped onto us!  It gave us great views.

Wearily we finally made it back to the Hagia Sophia square at 5pm after battling the non-stop traffic.  I decided on the restaurant for the evening which served delicious meals at extravagant prices.  I think I will be banned for the next few days!

In the evening we had our first tour meeting and we met our fellow travellers for the next twenty one days.  We are a group of fourteen Australians and one American.

Tomorrow the tour commences with a walk to some major sites and the next day we set off in the bus.

More adventures to come……….

Istanbul – 24 September, 2011

Weather – sunny – beautiful day!

Temperature – late 20s

Today we ventured out of Istanbul and took a cruise up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea.  We had already strolled along the waterside several times over a couple of days and there were many touters selling trips.  Eventually, we settled on a return trip at the terminal at Eminonu for the princely sum of 25 Turkish Lira and 5 Turkish Lira for the audio-guide.

The trip was to leave at 10.35am and although we queued from just before ten  it was already busy.  The ferry is very big so despite the crush at the dock there was plenty of room.  We secured a four berth booth and with headphones set on automatic we proceeded up the Bosphorus taking in the sights.  Particularly impressive was the Dolmabahce Palace as well as lavish homes and hotels along the way.  The waterway looks continuously choppy and always busy with very large shipping containers to small craft.  I think the captains went to the same school as the taxi drivers as everything seems to be at high speed.

Photo:  A view of the spectacular Dolmabahce Palace from the ferry on the Bosphorus.

We motored under the Bosphorous Bridge (or the First Bridge) where the bridge is closed once a year for the Eurasian Marathon - the only marathon linking two continents.

Photo:  Going under the Bosphoros Bridge.

After an hour and a half we pulled into the topmost port of Anadolu Kavagi for some sightseeing and lunch.  The temperature had really warmed up and we felt the heat walking up to the topmost point of Yoros Castle an old Genoese fortress built in Byzantine times.  We had good views of the Black Sea from here and it was very busy with tourists….we thought there only going to be a few there on such a hot walking day.

Photo:  The beautiful little village of Anadolu Davagi near the Black Sea.

We made our way down to the port and found a little restaurant overlooking the centre and the terminal.  After ordering our fish…a necessary order as it is renowned for its fish….the waiters brought a large tray from which to choose them!  David and Cameron chose sea bass, Desley chose a sole kebab and I chose sardines (I think).  We couldn’t resist ordering fried mussels for an entree as the area is known for them.  They arrived battered with a sauce and were delicious.  Desley’s kebab was very tasty but she soon discovered that the green capsicum was actually chilli and she nearly imploded!! Glasses of water and bread eased the agony….she coped very admirably and then steered away from the green devils on the skewer!

On our trip back we chose the same side of the boat to take in the other side of the Bosphorus.  After our lunch we snoozed our way home being awoken by the commentary and snapping the occasional photo.

A couple of hours back in our hotel room and feeling fresher we headed off for dinner.  Desley wanted to head over to the other side of the river and after quite a walk over the Galata Bridge passed all the fishermen and up a very steep hill we found the happening area of Istanbul!  We wandered around looking at the shops – many music shops – and eventually settled on the first restaurant we came across further back down the hill.  The waiter couldn’t fit us in downstairs so we dined on the first level which was so much better being quieter and having a table situated near open windows with a breeze and a perfect view of the lit Galata Tower.  We enjoyed our first pides (trying three different varieties) with a bottle of red.  The waiter was a young fellow about our boys’ age so we couldn’t resist leaving him a nice tip as he was trying so hard.

A stroll back home over the other side of the bridge, crossing roads and trying not to get killed we had supper at coffee and dessert café (Havij Mustafa) not far from our hotel.  Apple tea, coffee and a plate of assorted sweets including baklava and other unknown treats ended a perfect day!

Istanbul – Friday, 23 September 2011

Weather:  Sunny

Temperature:  mid twenties.

As the boys were interested in watching the Broncos game at 12.30pm at the Irish pub we chose an activity to fit into a morning program.  The Istanbul Archaeological Museums are not far from us and in the vicinity of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.

The complex has three museums:  The Ancient Orient Museum;  The Tiled Kiosk and the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.  The three museums consist of different civilizations and periods.  Today we tackled the Tiled Museum and the Tiled Kiosk.

Once again we purchased the audio-guides which gave us detailed information on the excellent exhibition housed in this nineteenth century building.

Photo:  The front of the Archaeological Museum.

The museum is worthwhile visiting for the sarcophagi alone with exhibits from Anatolia, Lycia, Egypt and Sidon.  The Sarcophagus of Alexander (purportedly that of Alexander the Great but it’s not!) is displayed behind glass.  The particularly exquisite ones are bathed in subtle light in two halls.

Photo:  This is called Alexander's Sarcophagus - very beautifully preserved.

The Tiled Kiosk is original in its site position and was built in 1472AD.  It houses a vast array of tiles through the ages and the audio guide was very useful here.

Photo:  The Fountain of Life in The Tiled Museum.  It was built in 1590.

The gardens at the museum are beautiful and have several old pieces interspersed throughout the site…perhaps they didn’t fit inside!

It was time for the Broncos game so Desley and I left them and wandered into a new little shop and looked at some of his fabric wares.  We were looking forward to talking to our family on Skype so we headed off to the hotel.

The boys had met up with some Australians keen on the game as well.  The situation looked dire for the Broncos when we caught up with them so the boys conceded defeat and we chose the same restaurant we dined at yesterday….once again delicious food.   Desley and I shared a “chicken breast” for dessert…..scrummy!

Onwards….(there’s no stopping us)….it was onto the old Turkish Baths (Cemberitas) which were built in 1584.  The doorway and steps to the baths are particularly inauspicious and you would miss the staircase down if you weren’t looking.  Desley, Cameron and I chose the body scrub and it was quite an initiation into this age-old ritual.  To put it mildly we were scrubbed within an inch of our lives!  The large marble slap held about fifteen women lying down waiting for a massage.  The instructions – verbal and nonverbal were minimal:  turn, sit and pat on bottom.  The room was very hot and we sweated it out until it was our turn. 

I then was motioned to the Jacuzzi tub which was very hot.  I’d had enough of the heat by then and made my way to get dressed.  You could go back and lie down on the slab or go to the central area and have drinks including apple tea.  We all agreed afterwards that we would enjoy it better knowing the procedure now. 

We met David ( who waited outside in the foyer watching all the comings and goings) and feeling super-clean we headed out to find the Egyptian obelisk.  After a few wrong turns we eventually found it just up from the Hagia Sophia.  There are two obelisks housed in the old hippodrome which is the old very large running track.  The Egyptian Obelisk was taken from Egypt and erected by Emperor Theodosius in 390AD.  It is a huge granite block with hieroglyphics and we all wondered how on earth it was transported there and put in place.

Photo:  Walking the streets of Istanbul - a merchant with his rugs.

Photo:  The Egyptian Obelisk - you may just be able to make out David and Cameron in front.

We continued wandering and decided to have a brief glimpse inside The Blue Mosque before our official Monday tour with our Peregrine group.  We followed procedure and removed our shoes and donned a blue scarf.  The interior is particularly impressive as it completely tiled. 

Photo:  One of the six minarets from The Blue Mosque lit for evening.

More wandering was to follow and we discovered a wonderful old street completely given over to restaurants….most with views of the Bosphorus River.  

A small dinner on a rooftop with views of the Bosphorous was lovely with a fresh breeze.  We could see the wonderful Blue Mosque with the minarets now lit for the evening so we wandered back to view it and the Hagia Sophia before we made our way back to the hotel.

Istanbul - Friday, 23 September 2011

Temperature – early twenties to mid-twenties

Weather – sunny with afternoon breeze

Today was our first full day in Istanbul and we planned to walk around and get our bearings.  Our plan was to visit the Hagia Sophia and the Grand Bazaar both on the ‘must do’ lists of Istanbul.

We met a group of people in the hotel foyer who had just completed the same Peregrine trip we are going on.  They absolutely loved it and gave us quite a few tips for Istanbul – particularly helpful was the location of the laundromat just around the corner.

Armed with their directions to the Hagia Sophia we followed the tram line up the hill past many exciting little shops filled with tiles, rugs, jewellery and souvenirs.

We emerged into the square fronting the Hagia Sophia Museum, bought our tickets and very wisely also purchased the audio guide.  Already it was very busy with tourists.  The basilica is the largest Byzantine church in Istanbul and was completed in 537AD (two previous constructions were destroyed by fire and riots).  It is jaw-droppingly huge and measures 78 metres by 72 metres and is 56 metres to the centre of the dome.  We moved slowly with our audio  guides taking in the history and snapping photos.  There is a holy spot called a Wishing Column where a prophet is said to have turned the church on the spot to get the correct direction.  Since then visitors have placed their thumbs through the hole in a circle and made a wish….so we all made our wishes.  The copper sheeting has worn away and so has the marble underneath which has formed a hole from so many people making their wishes.

Photo:  David and Cameron outside Hagia Sophia.

Photo:  David at the Wishing Column.

We had spent quite a few hours at Hagia Sophia and when we emerged we were glad that we had visited reasonably early as the tourists were crowding in!

A little way along we stopped for a delicious lunch and a much needed sit-down.  I tried aubergine moussaka which was delicious as was the other dishes ordered.  We finished up sharing a yummy Turkish dessert (didn’t want to order four and hate the lot!) called “chicken breast” which was a creamy firm texture with burnt brown sugar on top – a little like a very firm crème caramel.  Our first apple tea went down very well.

Photo:  Aubergine moussaka....very delicious!

Our next stop was the Grand Bazaar and we spent about fifteen minutes finding it as well as looking at the beautiful shops on the way.  The area was very clean with displays of flowers on the lamp poles and grassed areas.

We had heard so many stories of the Grand Bazaar (a 15^th century medieval labyrinth of 4000 shops) and we were really looking forward to it.  We were immediately overwhelmed with the busyness of the place and decided to separate as couples as it seemed hard to keep together.  The shops sell everything from carpets, jewellery, antiques, souvenirs, pottery, tiles etc.  Owners ask you all the time to see their wares and we quickly figured out it was easier to keep walking.  David and I became completely lost after surveying about five rows and ended up on the outside circling!  Eventually, we found our way back in and bumped into the Trees – a bit of a miracle really considering how big it is.  We were like wide-eyed rabbits in headlights and were so excited to see each other.  I think the Tree’s won with best selling touting line:  “let me sell you something you don’t want”.  A sit down was in order so we wandered up one of the aisles David and I had been before and had coffees, teas and baklava.  Above us were vaulted ceilings 500 years old!

As Team Oz we developed some courage and David haggled for the purchase of a t-shirt.  As the bravest member of our team he also bought a lovely piece of jewellery which Desley had admired and tried on…..the rest of us watched from up the alleyway out of sight…brave people that we were!

It was then on to the Spice Market which took us up back alleys of merchants selling amazing arrays of clothing from the long coats the Muslim women wear to wedding dresses that make My Big Fat Greek Wedding look like a spinster’s party!  Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos!

Desley and I then got carried away with some outrageous little dresses for our granddaughters…..David once again haggled and we got a good deal (well, we thought so but the dealer is probably still smiling!).  Not sure how we are going to transport these pink froufrou but Grace and Ella-Rose are going to look like wedding cakes!

Photo:  Desley and I with our granddaughters' pink froufrou!

The Spice Market was fun and we purchased Turkish Delight – which we ate as we wandered and nuts (sesame coated peanuts and lemon salted pistachios).  The aisles led us to the Bosphorous River promenade and we had a peek into the Yenicamii Mosque where men were cleansing themselves at basins from a circular font.   A wander over to the river followed and we watched men in swaying boats cooking fish on large hot-plates and then passing them to the customers in bread rolls with salads.  I’m sure the flavour was enhanced by the cigarette smoking chefs!

Photo:  Choosing the Turkish Delight!

Photo:  At the Spice Market.

We discovered we weren’t far from our hotel so we decided for a late afternoon drink at the Irish pub where prices were pretty outrageous.  Undaunted the team are heading there for the Broncos/Sea Eagles game at lunchtime tomorrow.

As we were heading back to the hotel we purchased an amber pendant at a shop.  The dealer was a lovely fellow from Pakistan.

Another day over…..and so much more to do!